Galtiscopio is a brand founded in Paris that designs women’s clothing and accessories, mainly watches and jewelry. The clothing aligned perfectly with Galtiscopio’s focus on jewelry as each item featured a jeweled embellishment in some way. Models strutted down the runway wearing a variety of silk slip dresses in an array of colors (purple being one of my favorites). Diamond embellishments still played a large role in the second part of the collection. One model even wore a pair of headphones covered in crystals.
Concept Korea is a biannual fashion show, supported by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of South Korea and organized by Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), to showcase Korean designers' collections at NYFW in the hope of expanding overseas business and awareness of up-and-coming Korean designer brands. Running its 16th show, I was super excited to check out the homegrown brands LIE and GREEDILOUS. What appealed to were the employing feminine silhouettes to casual wear and the unique way of mixing a variety of fabrics in one garment, making K-fashion look daring and stylish, yet very wearable – in other words, it's considered commercial enough without losing its edge.
For her 17th collection, Katie Gallagher captured a cold spring day in clothing form. Simply titled (“Rain”) and attached to a Joanna Klink poem (“Some Feel Rain”), the collection stuck to a palette of inky black and frosted blue. For an hour, models cycled through a set presentation: Thunder would clap, a digital animation of abstract raindrops would splash across their faces, and each girl would take a slow, winding turn around the platform stage to better showcase the pieces. I would say there would be some ballet influence within her spring collection with those faux leotards in tights with mink sashes tied over one shoulder, a floor-grazing tulle skirt trimmed in black grosgrain, and the messy ballet buns on models’ heads.
My second season going backstage with Aveda, I always look forward to seeing some of my favorite designer's collections and creative directions up close and personal. And Tibi always has such amazing pieces along with great hair and makeup. Strong, feminine and minimal are the three words I'd use to describe Tibi. Celebrating their 20th anniversary, there were tons of Nineties vibes, with mannish sporty looks on top of what Tibi is known for which is amazing tailoring and killer accessories. Can we please chit chat about these patent leather lavender mules I MUST have in my life come spring?! ;)
Taoray Wang is designed for the powerful, professional and modern woman who wants to be stylish, elegant and sexy. The brand serves a global and confident woman who is not afraid to show her femininity in edgy design while she plays her role as a politician, lawyer, and other executive roles. Classic men's fabrics and lines are tamed into silhouettes of armored grace. “Customers are not defined by race or nationality. They have an international background, they embrace diversity and are open-minded to try different things. They are well-educated,well-traveled and are multi-cultural. Dramatic cinched waists, slouchy sleeves and fringe were some of my favorite features in this season's SS18 collection.
Yuna Yang is inspired by the colors, textures, and narratives in fine art combined with her love of detail and unique Eastern perspective on Western aesthetics. Featuring women’s high-end designer wear, each design in the collection leverages a modern vision that harmonizes the quality of traditional couture. Proudly designed and made in New York, Yang uses materials from around the world for her collection that can be found in selected high-end boutiques across the US, Middle East, and Asia. Her latest collection, called "Save the Earth," is made in New York and uses Korean silks, recycled organic cotton, and lace and hand beading from India. The designs take on the shapes found in nature such as flowers and features the color green often.
TOME's SS18 collection was like a deconstructed rainbow. A colorful lineup where multicolored stripes came alive through the movement of accordion pleats. Based in New York TOME sees the pair’s collective experience expressed in a range that is practical and straightforward – clean cut, essential dressing. Form follows function and every TOME piece is ethically produced, with a view toward inclusivity and diversity.
BACKSTAGE AT PUBLIC SCHOOL NYC WITH AVEDA
Street-savvy clothing line Public School is the brainchild of New York-born and bred designers, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. Growing up, both Chow and Osborne attended public school in New York City, and that had a huge influence on their lives. “At public school here, you could tell who groups of students were by what they wore,” Osborne explained, which ignited the designer’s interest in clothing. What I really enjoyed was the makeup, most especially an updated version to a smokey eye... I'd prefer to call it the gasoline eye given the tar-like greasy appearence, it's such a cool look!
For her spring show, Vivienne Tam found inspiration in Raman Hui’s Chinese 3-D fantasy movie Monster Hunt, the story of a mythical land where humans and monsters coexist. In particular, the collection spotlighted Wuba, the cute little monster protagonist of the movie. His funny image appeared on a range of pieces, from straw bags to feminine dresses, including airy asymmetric silk styles and a shirtdress featuring a drawstring at the waist. The movie also inspired the lineup’s palette of soft, pastel colors, as well as the graphic motifs of mountains and river landscapes, which were printed and embroidered on breezy frocks and cotton shirts with silk panels. Despite the main inspiration, the aesthetic wasn’t too childlike. She actually infused a free-spirited, nomadic vibe into her lively collection, where pretty ruffled silk and cotton lace dresses were styled with ethnic sash belts and utilitarian fanny packs worn as cross-body bags.
Better known as "The Invisible Man" in media circles, Liu Bolin sprang from a generation of artists struggling with the consequences of the Cultural Revolution and the rapid economic development in the decades after. He discusses the social concerns of his home country through his artistic practice, most prominently through his 'camouflage' installations. Traversing mediums such as performance, photography and social activism, Liu Bolin dissects the tense relationship between the individual and society by 'disappearing' into environments which are sites of intrigue, contention, and criticism. His debut collection of inspired and editioned garments are hand painted and are inspired by Liu Bolin's politically charged photographs produced in the U.S. This project was inspired by 12 years of collaborations with various fashion powerhouses, including Lanvin, Gaultier, and Moncler, an outstanding musical performance by seven-year-old piano prodigy Zhao ZItang and Musical Director Charlie Klarsfelt set the tone for the gallery-like innovative presentation.
BACKSTAGE AT ZERO & MARIA CORNEJO AND AVEDA
In particular, the designer said that for her spring effort, she wanted to re-create that sense of youthfulness and freedom that her collections of the time exuded. Makeup was done by the super talented Dick Page and with Mac Cosmetics. I loved how fresh and simple the looks were, and the sleek 90s hair done by SVP Creative Director, Antoinette Beenders. Even the nails were spot on!
LANYU’s shapes proudly show off a woman’s body and her natural femininity, helping her exude her inner confidence and beauty. LANYU is the namesake brand of China’s premiere luxury designer Lan Yu. Lan Yu’s design often incorporates Su embroidery - a traditional technique that has been handed down for generations in the designer’s family and is best known for its elegance, intricacy and photorealistic quality. I loved the pastel blues incorporated into the creamy neutral toned palettes. And red didn't fail to make an appearance even in a more subtly-colored collection. I'm telling ya', that color is going to be hot, hot, hot this fall!
Mimi Prober is a New York based designer and Fashion Institute of Technology graduate. Her signature collection is handcrafted using recovered fragments of antique materials dating from the 18th to early 20th centuries, natural and locally produced luxury fibers, as well as botanical based dye methods that have been uniquely developed into custom textiles that are organically designed, artisanal, and seasonless. Through a zero-waste philosophy, each piece is created by hand with one of a kind placement that highlights the individual history and story. Prober is celebrated for her decorative and unique beading, embroidery, and lace designs. Integrating the artistry of the past and establishing a sustainable future through the reuse of antique materials to create modern handcrafted heirlooms. Honoring the hands that created the art.
Marcel Ostertag is maker and brand in one. In his studio, surrounded by the pulsating streets of the Gaertnerplatz quarter, he creates his collections which are set between tradition and modernity. During his studies at the renowned Central St. Martins College in London, Marcel Ostertag could extend his feeling and know how for fashion and is constantly developing thanks to numerous international shows and collaborations. Catwalk shows in Shanghai, Beijing, London and Vienna are in the meantime routine, as is the seasonal show in the course of the Berlin fashion week. He draws his inspiration from nature, encounters with interesting people, travels and foreign countries – but never forgets his roots. He has worked on projects with Burberry, Paul Smith and Dunhill, furthermore great brands such as Miele and Volkswagen are amongst his customers. He finally devoted himself to the glamour of fashion with the founding of his own label Marcel Ostertag in 2006. His fashion is exclusively produced in Germany, as his credo is quality needs control. That is what his style demands and you can feel it in every fantastic piece by Marcel Ostertag.