Alexander Wang Pre Fall 2020 Collection and Beauty Trends

Last week I was invited by Jin Soon to go backstage at the Alexander Wang Pre Fall 2020 Collection Runway Show to see what the beauty artists were up to when it came to hair, makeup and nails. As an ode to the pioneers of American sportswear, Alexander Wang took inspiration from iconic designers such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren for his 2020 Collection 1 runway show. With the collection broken down into four parts, the last part being Wang's future vision of American design, he also wanted four variated hairstyles to go with the looks. And that’s just hair. Continue reading to see full visual story of the behind the scenes in beauty along with some of my favorite looks from the show.

HAIRSTYLES

The first hairstyle was a very structured '70s silhouette, with two different types of braids. Some of the models had braids (which took up to six hours to create) with a center part. The hair was then saturated with handfuls of L'Oreal mousse to ease the pressure of the braids on the scalp, lock in style, and tame any fly-aways and baby hairs. "Alex wanted a very clean and graphic silhouette," says lead hair stylist Duffy backstage. "There's a Jet cover from 1973 with a [model with a] center part. When you look through documented trends in hair, some of the braid work was so intricate and well-executed. I wanted to celebrate that moment that was forgotten." For the second type of braid, the hair was extended into ponytails and then wrapped with leather to resemble a bull whip. My favorite hairstyle from the show. After waist-length extensions were added, models were given one, two, or three ponytails that were pulled tightly and held in place with Elnett Extra Strong Hold Hairspray. They were then wrapped and braided with leather all the way down — a project that took as many as five stylists on a single model. The level of focus from the stylists were intense. Major dedication to this look.

The second group of models had their hair separated into three sections, straightened, and then finished off with loads of L'Oreal setting lotion. The aesthetic was, "graphic, hard, and shiny," according to Duffy, but Wang didn't want the hair to look too wet or plastic-y either. The third look was inspired by sumo wrestler hair. L'Oreal Extra Hold Gel was applied to the strands in order to achieve an iridescent, reflective sheen and the hair was then fanned out into ponytails. See in image above to the right.

The fourth look matched with the other three looks but consisted of more individuality. Wang “gang” girls, Kendall Jenner, Kaia Gerber, Lexi Boling, Selena Forrest, and Binx Walton, all wore white for the show. To go with this look, they wanted sexy and minimalistic, as if the models just stepped out of water. This is definitely a look I go for during the summer time.

MAKEUP

Lead by makeup artist Diane Kendal, the models were given a subdued look of luminous, glowing skin with a bit of cheek contouring using Nars' Endless Orgasm Palette and Orgasm Liquid Highlighter. Brows were filled in with a "boy-ish" charm to them and the Nars' Orgasm Oil-Infused Lip Tint (insane packaging) was applied to both lips and the tops of the cheekbones for a 90s-inspired, dewy glow. That gloss/glass effect on the cheekbones and eyelids is definitely going to be making a comeback in the next few seasons. I have yet to try any of these products (too crazy to attempt to amidst the chaos backstage) but do use their Orgasm blush every day and it’s my go-to-product for fresh, subtle blushed cheeks. This look is perfect with slicked-back wet polished hair - I think because of the intricacy behind the hair along with the strong statement from Wang’s collection definitely were influenced by the minimal no-makeup-makeup look and it truly works because the makeup doesn’t need to distract from the clothes.

NAILS

The nails were also minimalist, with Jin Soon Choi using four nude shades from her eponymous polish line: Dulcet, Demure, Nostalgia and Muse. "We tried to match a JINsoon nude shade to each model to complement their skin tone" explained Choi. Then, because the designer "wanted a cool, more modernized spin" to the neutral nails, she topped the polish with Jin Soon Matte Maker Topcoat, noting that, unlike many other matte-finish polish formulas, hers is "very satin-finished, not dry. This gives more of a cool, sportswear look," said Choi, “while celebrating each model's individuality without overpowering any of the looks they are sporting.” If I’m wearing a nude polish on my nails, it’s Nostalgia, but I’m dying to trying Dulcet for the fall!

FAVORITE LOOKS/TRENDS

Taking place at Rockefeller Center the show was the first ever held at the venue, and sectioned off to specific clientele along with a quite vulnerable position for public viewing (hey, he’s done it before). In homage to the Holy Trinity from the 90s - Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, Wang feature 4 different looks including his own future take on American sportswear. I loved the bold shouldered blazers inspired from Karan’s collections along with the crazy cool denim, a personal favorite and one that will be sold out in a heartbeat are those thigh-high slit denim skirts. (That' 90s light blue wash is MINE) Definite Klein vibes along with logo tees and even underwear as outerwear. Ralph Lauren-isms like flannel plaid, mile-long suede fringe, and wide-wale corduroy were also spotted on the runway. How good are those corduroy blazers though?! Another detail I spotted were neck ties being used as an accessory on a handbag. Not your typical piece, but I will definitely be re-interpreting this.

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LFW AW19 Recap

Thanks for being so patient, everyone! My full recap of London Fashion Week AW19 is now live! I have my NYFW recap up from the Fall/Winter 2019 season as well (Link HERE) Again apologies for the delay! Better late than never, I rounded up 6-7 of my favorite looks per show that I had the pleasure of attending, with a full-text review of each collection along with a couple of highlights I found worth mentioning as well. So sit back and relax, enjoy the show! :)

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JAMIE WEI HUANG

After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2012 and having won numerous awards such as ‘Elle New Talent’ Taiwan, Jamie Wei Huang’s AW19 collection ‘Roaming Boy’, was showcased within a once traditional church, now The Garden Museum. The show invitation demonstrated a school exam theme, asking all guests to bring their pencil to the show  ‘exam’ and the press release amusingly mimicking a short multiple choice test sheet. The collection epitomized private school rebellion. Hues of royal blue, red and white paired with a selection of tartan. The innocent school-kid was edged with extreme undiluted hemlines, oversized bum bags (worn in the cool way across the shoulder of-course) and extreme padded jackets in non-conventional pop colors. A diamond-check weave made the occasional appearance, paired with bold hand embroidery and layered, oversized sweaters. Unruly piercings accentuated every other ensemble and the occasional low neckline added just that ounce of sexiness.

GAYEON LEE

A presentation of modern femininity that was both luxurious and sophisticated. Gayeon Lee for AW19 showcased ten looks at a time, that were pastel delights in chic dressing and sleek silhouettes. The presentation was hidden in the Crypt at St Martin-in-the-fields church, in Trafalgar Square, an unusual space for a LFW location, with cozy jazz music playing in the distant background. Gayeon Lee is from South Korea and has a MA in Fashion Womenswear from Central Saint Martins. Her graduate MA collection was incredible and sparked interest from the likes of Lady Gaga. After working for Marc Jacobs in both London and New York, Gayeon Lee launched her own label in 2014. Winner of the Vogue talent awards in 2016, Gayeon Lee was also chosen to work with Swarovski for AW18 and SS18. Her collections are known to draw inspiration from fine art and Gayeon Lee’s work is known to be conceptually driven. Her signature bended metal strap bags have definitely caught my eye for the past couple of seasons, the AW19 bags were structured into prism shapes of earthy tones.

BORA AKSU

Bora Aksu’s AW19 was inspired by Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman to go into space. A feminine, light and holographic collection, the show began with symbolizing her humble beginnings with simplicity. Ivory, grey two-pieces are paired with chiffon oversized bows, and muted down check suits. Then puffy coats to a pink ruffled chiffon dress with red hems screamed new age romanticism and expanded the mystical color palette with lilacs, pinks, green and light blues. Space helmets were swapped for hand-embroidered and hand-knitted headpieces designed in collaboration with Liria Pristine, other further accessories were some funky avant-garde oval sunglasses and pearl jewelry adding a touch of class. The staple Bora Aksu silver boot added an elegant touch to the futuristic astronaut-aesthetic. Very cool indeed, when are we going to Mars and which gown should I be wearing when we do? :)

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

“Swathes of wool and padded fabric encase her, goddess warrior, made from a palette of turning leaves and earth – of brown and putty and cornflower and crimson. Resilience and adaptability manifests in her elongated silhouette, roomy tailored suits, curtain-tie sashes and winged dresses. Tailoring and draping brings softness and structure to signature asymmetric silhouettes. I think of the columns of the Temple of Parthenon. Layering prevails in oversize multi-way jackets with tiered lapels that fasten this way and that, allowing glimpses of tonal variations and in this our complexities are revealed – there is ‘no one typical woman’. Slit-sleeve blazer and a four-tiered teal trench peel back, exploring out many identities – creator, mother, warrior, lover. If she is a whole, it’s a whole composed of parts that are wholes, not simple partial objects but a moving, limitlessly changing ensemble, a cosmos tirelessly traversed by Eros, an immense astral space not organized around any one sun that’s any more of a star than the others.“ All-in-all, Marta Jakubowski strongly stating women should never be stereotyped.

CASSEY GAN

Cassey Gan’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection is titled “Pixelated”. As colorful vivid brushstrokes take the form of a pattern heavy collection, it’s a print-lover’s dream! The Malaysian designer demonstrated printing techniques are mature enough to achieve that, beside thick fabric, the designer also used lightweight fabric and reflective fabric in their collection. Orange, blue, lemon, and red, the color choice is vibrant and the original designed prints are mostly in a repeated pattern formula. These are styled with traditional check or Houndstooth patterned garments on top or underneath. Traditional pattern and original print designs crossover and fuse together in the collection. Gorgeous textiles, striking statement earrings as accessories, and using non-form fitting garments revealed new layers of their evolving work.

MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH

Located in the remarkable architecture of St Georges Bloomsbury Church, the space was transformed into an autumnal wonderland. Lines of seats created four catwalks, each smothered in a sea of fallen leaves, the nostalgic smell of the season lingered in the air. Live performance by musical talent James Broughton played in the background as the models walked under the crisp foliage. Bach has created pieces inspired by the aesthetic of Autumn, with a warm palette - the overall tone for the collection. A base of black is lifted by plummy red, bold ochre and rich green bring a beautiful visual tempo to the collection, as well as metallic accents flirting with the rays of natural light. The juxtaposition of fabrics and patterns allows for a play on masculine versus feminine, for example combining the more rough corduroy and check fabrics with softs rippling floral accents reminiscent of magnolia. Perfectly accessorized with sunnies and focal shoe point were boots/mules for the colder season. Definitely a favorite from London Fashion Week!

NATASHA ZINKO

Natasha Zinko presented their new AW 2019 collection at Next, Plaza Oxford Street for London Fashion Week. Models entered down the escalator in cool cuts with many pockets (this is definitely Natasha’s personal style) along with kangaroo hats, long-length leather gloves and over-the-top OTK boots, which were all personal faves for me. Denim and print played a huge role within the collection, as well as color with a very upbeat youthful allure to her pieces. I adore her take on street style and this collection definitely sets a certain tone to this genre in fashion. Definitely could see myself wearing any number of these pieces! Such a cool, inspiring collection to see.

UNDERAGE STUDIO

Characterized by mixed shapes and dark nuances, UNDERAGE’s collection for autumn/winter 2019 reflects the juxtaposition of strange and familiar traits in a similar manner to The Rocky Horror Picture Show. The movie, which is the main inspiration of the brand’s mastermind Ying Shen, continues to have as big an impact on the young people of today as it had on the audiences of the 70s – though it leaves an impression of a different kind. The Beijing-born designer explores cutting-edge and advanced forms against more conventional layouts, focusing especially on the creative take of generation Z. The outfits bring together simple t-shirts with puffer jackets, smooth jersey trousers and combed knitwear. Velvet is paired with metallic details. There is a hint of crochet, but there are also leather laces tied up the calf. One of the jackets sports a sticker patch with the brand’s name, while an uneven maculated skirt is matched with a fading burgundy pullover. Red, as the set for the presentation also emphasizes, is the predominant color, featured in different shades. Glasses – in the shape of eyelashes, drawn-on grey plexiglass or cut out in electric blue – are common accessories.

AADNEVIK

The new AADNEVIK collection is inspired by Leo Tolstoy’s “ Anna Karenina”. I saw several silk chiffon gowns with hand beaded french lace and leather craftsmanship. Even ostrich feathers. This brand is known for its uber-sexy, revealing clothes and have dressed A-list celebrities such as Kate Beckinsale, Halle Berry, Olivia Culpo and others. Models strutted down the runway with sounds of a running train in the background brought an eerily romantic tone to the show. I was most impressed with the hair done by Morrocan Oil along with the tailoring of some of the gowns. Definitely red carpet looks, I also really adored the animal print matching set which included a beaded jacket with shorts. Not your typical fall getup, but nothing in AADNEVIK is typical.

RICHARD MALONE

Reflecting on the looming threat of Brexit as an Irish immigrant, for AW19 Richard Malone looked to simpler times – to the birthday parties of his youth. He sent out a party wardrobe rich in color and texture that elevated the everyday to a fashion context: he repurposed dog beds into elegant fur stoles, and fashioned frock coats from twill fabrics typically used in school uniforms. Form-fitting silk dresses intricately gathered to contour the body and ladylike suiting in fitting hues of blue, red and white were juxtaposed with punkish laddered knits and hand-painted mohair coats, adding a hint of rebellion. Highlights included the fuzzy wuzzy socks to go with the matching coats, as well as oxblood being a steady color within the collection’s palette.

PAUL COSTELLOE

Costelloe displayed his mastery of tailoring in what was one of his more confident collections in recent years; the military inspired coats in pure Italian wool definitely drew attention. Pulling inspiration from Rule Britannia, it was quite literally a combination of war and peace to some extent. The mixture of military coats with beautiful gowns was something a bit different for Costelloe, but the tailoring spoke for itself. Going back to his roots was not a mistake, and I hope to see more of this in his future collections. Highlights were the buttery leather greenery in one pair of leggings, along with a diverse casting, even though he had something specific within his theme.

WESLEY HARRIOTT

One of the designers I have yet to see during London Fashion Week, Wesley Harriott’s name will definitely be more familiar in the coming years. Using only monochrome hues of black and white, Harriott makes a statement by reflecting how people often define one another according to their exterior before really paying attention to their complex characteristics which are not always evident at first. He focuses on drape and construction by redefining traditional tailoring techniques to add a sense of uniform to reflect the militant aura during Empress Dowager Cixi’s reign. Inspired by The Last Empress of China, Wesley Harriott fell in love with the strong divide on opinion on her that was only ever ‘black or white’. Despite the way people perceived her, she continued pioneering whilst unapologetically being herself. This is stressed within each ensemble as even more obscure detail and trimmings are revealed the longer they’re examined.

EDELINE LEE

One of my favorite shows of LFW, Edeline Lee likes to think outside the box. This season she invited a host of accomplished women across the worlds of art, science, and technology onto the stage. “In this industry we are always talking about women, but rarely do we give them the opportunity to speak,” said Lee of her presentation. “I wanted to give them a voice.” It was over an hour of orations from 35+ women of all backgrounds using their strengths on top of curating a stand-out fashion presentation. Not the most ideal - since many editors (like myself) don’t have the time to stay and see the entire collection. However, her quiet yet increasingly elevated pieces speak for themselves, in that they are very likely to be worn in our everyday ready-to-wear looks. Can’t wait to see what Edeline turns up next for SS20!

Pushbutton

Designer Seung-Gun Park toyed with the idea of “celebrating all things unflattering” for AW19, dreaming up a series of unusual headpieces made from plates, combs, forks and even lighters. But beneath these showstoppers, Park’s feminine tailored pieces with strong historical references were nothing short of flattering: Elizabethan collars and 14th-century pourpoint jackets were updated with sporty sweatshirt fabrics, while corset tops and puffed sleeves added a regal spirit. A mix-mash of textures and patterns – checkers, polka dots and frills – resulted in a confident and outspoken collection that reaffirmed the label’s signature punk attitude. One to watch out for, Pushbutton is definitely one of my favorite new Korean designers on the fore front.

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NYFW SS19 RECAP

My NYFW blog post is finally up! This SS19 season I wanted to keep things simple yet fresh. So for my content from this past September I'm sharing 6 favorite looks from each show I attended along with a recap/review of each designer's collection that I saw. Straight to the point without any bells and whistles. Thanks for waiting for this delayed post and I hope you enjoy my perspective on each collection. Let's get started!

A_I_R ATELIER

Eye-catching but understated colors, a mixture of prints such as tigers, bats, flowers, suns, each A_I_R Atelier look was paired with one-of-a-kind accessory from the luxury watch brand, Klasse14. Some items of note - this 'Wild World' graphic tee, floral bomber, and play of different prints both alone and in two.

NOON BY NOOR

The Spring/Summer 2019 collection pays homage to Bahrain, inspired by its desert beauty with its soft sands and palm trees. I've seen Noon by Noor’s work before and they're always creating attractive, fresh and clean clothes that hit the middle-of-the-road aesthetic. Lovely silhouettes - loose and flowing with delicate shoulders, subtle patterns - all in all less always being more in this house. Their blue palette was certainly a fave. Photo top middle corner. Case in point. 

LAURENCE & CHICO

You can definitely say Laurence & Chico is over the top. Set at Chelsea Piers Fitness Center, I didn't expect to actually much sportswear from this dynamic duo who are known for their theatrical concepts. This is something I really appreciate because not all fashion should solely be ready-to-wear or haute couture. Fashion should be being able to do whatever your creativity wants itself to do. And what's fabulous (aside from Miss J Alexander's commentary AND walk throughout the show), they offered witty sport pieces there were either deconstructed, reconstructed or repurposed. Really with the now. One inspiration I couldn't stop thinking about when watching this season's show: The Fifth Element's opera singer. I must be really into blue this spring and summer season...

TADASHI SHOJI

Mermaid, starry-starry night vibes with intricate patterns of the galaxy or nature, either or both are universal and powerful in Tadashi Shoji’s SS19 collection. Leaves, fish scales, the universe itself with strong color palettes of neon greens and pinks but also modest blues. I especially gowns and the bottom right most - truly a stunner. Accessories such as earrings and shoes were very on point along with the dramatic sparkly makeup.

NICOLE MILLER

The ultimate cool girl, most adoringly loose-curled hair and smokey eye makeup models strutted down the runway in mixed prints of polka dot, denim, and leopard. Yes, you have heard it here folks, animal print is back ;) And the 80s aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. Favorites were the oversized jackets with varsity cuffs and a fully sequined camo trouser with matching T-shirt. Oh, and that the ‘club kids’ danced/walked the finale together and not in the single-filed line. Nicole Miller is indeed, here to stay.

CONCEPT KOREA - LIE COLLECTION

Concept Korea may not be a name that is familiar to many, but its assured use of color - reminiscent of the master itself, Prada, definitely makes it one to watch. The dress I wore to the show (shown here from my NYFW SS19 Outfits) was from their FW18 collection. When I went in for my fitting, I instantly fell in love with the hug of the fabric and ruffles of the plaid print. Different, fun - just like me! Favorites was the army green trench and other mixed plaid trench. As you can see, heavily into trench coats. the concept of the Spring/Summer 2019 collection was ‘Perfectly Imperfect’. The designer, Chung Chung Lee wanted it to say that women do not need to be perfect and that their imperfection already has a perfect personality.” The perfect combination of intense detail, soft colors, tailoring, and athleisure style, in my opinion.

CHROMAT

The models came down the runway literally dripping in water. Playing on the idea of the beach cover up Chromat flipped the script by adding transparency, weblike netting, and cropped silhouettes to this concept. But what makes Chromat is not just the clothes themselves, but more so the message that is being sent out in the fashion industry: And that is inclusivity. The ongoing dialogue about the human form that play's out in Chromat's collection was definitely acknowledged in the SS19 show. Body positivity, gender fluidity, and disability rights—Becca McCharen-Tran's shows serve as more than a showcase for clothes, as she was one of the first designers to recognize these subjects and I'm all for it. Hip hip hooray!

MARINA MOSCONE

Held in Willem de Kooning’s former studio and residence near Union Square, Marina Moscone is the first designer to use this space for an event as such. A serene space with enormous archways, chipping pastel doors, and giant water lilies painted on the walls set the mood. Models breezed through the rooms and gave editors and buyers an up-close look at their raw-edged silk dresses, fluffy hand-knit sheaths, and gently molded Basque tailoring. Moscone said “unconventional women” of the ’60s like Natalie Wood and Penelope Tree were her muses this season. They were instrumental in bringing a new, less-traditional kind of femininity to the era, one that merged glamour with a touch of eccentricity. I really dug each garment’s flexibility and the way certain looks such as the chunky sandal can and will be worn at black-tie events. Favorite was the black cocktail dress in bottom left hand corner. Simply divine.

TAORAY WANG

Considered the “queen of suits”, Chinese designer Taoray Wang stayed true to her brand, showcasing a mix of traditional and trendy styles. Pastels, plaid and a pop of color intertwined within Taoray Wang’s trademark tailored structure. Merging East and West, dressing that global business lady and oozing with feminine power, independence and confidence:  Wang’s SS19 presented a flower bursting into bloom, very much a blossom-blush inspired collection. 

TIBI

Hands down probably my favorite show for every NYFW, it was a true pleasure to attend the show for the first time this season. Play on suiting mixed with resort accessories such as beachy sandals and sunnies was the ultra-coolness of the collection along with a few male models strutting down the runway. (Perhaps Tibi will launch menswear in the near future?) What I truly love about the designer, Amy Smilovic, is her innate attention for supercharged, statement-making colors, in particular for the SS19 collection, the palette merged “sun-bleached” pastels like lemon, baby pink, and lime with bolder pops of orange, cobalt, and raspberry. Truly a match made in heaven. It was definitely difficult choosing my favorites for this one - I loved the ENTIRE collection!

DENNIS BASSO

The Dennis Basso SS19 collection takes global women on an amazing journey from sporty and carefree to glamorous evenings. Pale pinks and baby blues are mixed with red and cream and a statement of black and white for a feminine and chic color palette. A variety of crisp fabrics such as organza, gazaar, and canvas create interesting shape and structure throughout the collection. Summer furs are also incorporated with sable, Russian broadtail, mink, and fox. The collection also includes feather touches and intricate hand embroideries. Favorite looks? Top right (HI pockets) and bottom middle (HELLLLLLLLO jacket) LOLOL

HAN WEN

If you haven't already heard of Han Wen, you're going to want to pay attention ASAP. The 24-year-old designer recently unveiled his Spring/Summer 2019 collection, a summertime wardrobe "for one's journey through life, love, and remembrance," per the press release. The collection was inspired by a story from the designer's mother's life, he explained: We imagine a young bride, called away on business to Europe for the summer. Her days are spent working tirelessly to advance her professional career. On weekends, she explores foreign cities and cultures, all the while chronicling her adventures in letters and postcards to her young groom, waiting anxiously for her to return home. Each look in the collection carries with it a bit of that story—soft feminine lines, warm hues, and delicate map illustrations. Check out my post here to see a shirt I wore by the designer to the presentation.

SUZANNE RAE

Suzanne Rae Pelaez’s Spring output was crafted from a youthful worldview informed by fairy tales, Hollywood films, and the punchy colors of Crayola crayons. With her vintage dollhouse sitting at the center of her Chinatown studio and daughter Ella playing alongside models dressed in cheery shades of pink and lavender, Rae Pelaez set an exuberant mood. The clothes were as smile-inducing; cropped suits in floral jacquard with transparent overlays of tulle with cross-stitching that resembled circuitry were cute and inventive, while bows adorning trousers, belts, and even shoes added an unapologetically girly touch.

Want to see more from any of these SS19 collection from NYFW? Continue onto my Instagram page where under my highlights you will find each finale walk in my NYFW sections. What was your favorite out of the ones I attended this season? If you had to pick one outfit of your choice, what would it be? Stay tuned for my London Fashion Week content, coming up next!

I do not own the rights to these images. All rights reserved.

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London Fashion Week AW 18 Full Recap

All photos & edits by: Suzanne Spiegoski

XU ZHI

Known for his deconstructed fabrics and feminine silhouettes, Xuzhi Chen's was born in Shenzhen but is based in London. Chen studied foundation art in London, then fashion in 2010, graduating in 2015. Having done internships with menswear designer Craig Green and J.W. Anderson, he's now part of that booming hub of designers based in Dalston in East London. Also, a semi-finalist last year for the prestigious LVMH Prize and Asia finalist for the International Woolmark Prize proves his wizardry when it comes to fabrics. Chen looked to Jane Morris, wife of the textile designer William Morris and the lover of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, who is one of the most recognised faces in art history for her famous pout, as well as the relationship between artist, muse and now, designer, which he states in the show notes in the relevancy of #TimesUp. The collection is filled with painting references, with the ankle length skirts and coats featuring a waxy finish, which mimics the sheen of oil paintings, while Chen’s yarn-braiding technique has been developed to make the fabric appear to have a brush stroke effect, and the deconstruction effects to the tailoring adds a textural element when paired with wide-leg trousers and pleated skirts. Definitely, a designer to watch out for - Xu Zhi will be a household name in the very near future. By far one of my favorite presentations during London Fashion Week.

AMY THOMSON

Emerging designer Amy Thomson poses the question: What do a princess, baker and a hairdresser look like from a child’s perspective with her playful autumn/winter 2018 collection ‘Chasin’ Dreams’. With the models standing amongst floating clouds, the eight oversized pink outfits really brought the idea of fantasy and dreams - each showcasing the profession as seen by a child, with also the help from the designer’s larger-than-life hand-rendered drawings that produced charming prints, motifs, and illustrations to form the narrative of the collection, ensuring that no two garments are the same. Metallic based textures created a sparkling performance. Feminine silhouettes, with giant bow ties and illustrative frills made for a fun slumber party feel. The use of silks, faux fur, and leathers using a palette of fuchsias, baby pink, hot pink that contrast with the royal blues and lilacs. Illustrations upon metallic fabric are layered and stitched on the faux fur. Thomson also collaborated with headwear designer Katie Hamlett from Sassy Freak featuring a range of tiaras of iconic childhood toys such as Barbie heads and My Little Pony. Commenting on the collection, Thomson said: “Telling a narrative and connecting with an audience is very important to myself as a designer. Chasin’ Dreams is based on real muses, real stories and my own and there is no story truer than the one you are living.”

CLAIRE TAGG

What do you get when you combine glamour with destructed textures? A dramatic yet opulent range. Debuting her collection in London at Fashion Scout's Freemasons Hall, Claire Tagg brought her inspiration from her travels as an air hostess. A graduate of University of Creative Arts, Rochester, Tagg was awarded the New Designers Hainsworth Statement Award, as well as being named the runner-up in the prestigious womenswear award at Graduate Fashion Week. Her AW 18 collection demonstrated Tagg’s signature layered aesthetic using digital printing to create rich textures of ripped paper alongside a cherry blossom print and elaborate embellishments, which were all placed by hand. There were structured jackets and blazer style dresses juxtapositioned with oversized full skirts and ballgowns created from Duchess Satin that really brought out sophistication and elegance. The accessories were also prominent with colorful earrings and fabric belts with plane seatbelt fastenings. Cute.   

UNDERAGE STUDIO

I found it extra cool being able to visit the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) during London Fashion Week (LFW), where also the UNDERAGE AW18 present took place. The designer, Ying Shen was born in Beijing China, where she initially studied graphic design, using multimedia techniques from film, to animation and 3D modeling before moving to London to pursue fashion design studies at Central Saint Martins School of Art & Design. The collection transported us to the underground punk movement from the 70s and late 90s. The UNDERAGE AW18 collection titled “Riots of Our Own” comments on the rebellious and social disruption of the era – and what that means for someone of a similar mindset today. A celebration of self-expression, independence, and nonconformity, acknowledges the makers of change from the past and applying it to a personal, modern-day fight for the future. Real eye-catching presentation.

MIMI TRAN DESIGNS

I'm not one to wear gowns, but if I had to (yes, how painful) I'd definitely go with San Francisco-based designer Mimi Tran. Her AW 18 collection consisted of a color palette with uncommonly rendered icy tones of gold, cool blue and dark pink among others. She is known for her artisan hand beading and the use of colors to full effervescent effect, the detailing of cutting-edge dimensional patterns evoked depth and with graceful movement. 

EDELINE LEE

I never thought I'd attend a secret Zen garden during my time in London a couple of weeks ago, but I did for Edeline Lee's presentation. Inspiration from holistic practices of the East infused within her collection with technique draping and most especially, my favorite, tassel trimmings that were similar to Ayurvedic robes. It refined a traditional cape coat with subtle sophistication. There were even gong players to immerse guests and a set dotted with serene topiary-style sculptures. Dark floral jacquards were in respects to the Garden of Eden, naturally along with Pilgrim collars, origami pleats, and an overall monastic tone. This collection is very appealing for those looking for a modest option but with a fashion-forward slant. Just lovely. 

MALAN BRETON

Self-taught, Taiwanese-born designer, Malan Breton, demonstrated strong and seductive pieces in his AW 18 collection titled, 'Omega.' His unusual colors, textures, and silhouettes pair a playfulness with drama - a consistent love of contrasts like my favorite: Hard leather silhouettes pressed up against soft Taiwanese florals. Plum, navy blue, and bright orange colors stuck out, especially a men's patent leather orange jacket. Think lavish splendor with theatrical fashion. Breton's numerous awards, including the FGI Rising Star Award 2016 and the Taiwan Tourism Award for contributions to Fashion and Media, along with some pretty impressive showbiz credits, including costuming Breaking Bad and MTV’s VMAs, speak for themselves. 

 

steventai

steventai’s AW18 presentation brought the neon streets of Macau to London Fashion Week with a unique digitally augmented experience. Created in collaboration with San Francisco film tech experts ILMxLAB (Lucasfilm’s immersive entertainment division), the presentation carried us into a hyper-real world inspired by the ‘Las Vegas of the East’. Models dressed in softly structured velvet and corduroy pantsuits and flowered dresses with trench coats, and my favorite, the accessories such as clear grocery tote bags and clear umbrellas, elevated the workwear with luxurious detail and lavish material. Among the models was an avatar, generated with real-time CGI and dressed in digitally formed garments as part of the collection. Perhaps this is a new way we will see and shop fashion in the future?

AADNEVIK

Aadnevik is a London based luxury label directed by Hila & Kristian Aadnevik renowned internationally for their characteristic feminine, opulent, alluring designs. Presenting their new Swan Lake inspired collection at London Fashion Week AW18 in an opulent historical setting of a grandiose library at One Whitehall Place, the collection is inspired by the classic story of Odette and Odile, where light and dark contrast each other, like good and evil, and romance and tragedy. A woman can be strong and soft at the same time and makes no difference when it comes to undying love. And you can sense this form of unconditional emotion through the pieces, intricate beadwork with silver metal and pearls, delicate French lace was adorned with black and red hearts, beads, crystals, stars, feathers, and flowers. Sensual yet ethereal. Hair by Moroccan Oil, makeup by Bellápierre Cosmetics, nails by Candy Coat. 

PAUL COSTELLOE

Paul Costelloe presented to us, volume and print for this year's AW 18 collection. For his collection, he used quite neutral colors like shades of browns, greens, greys and a pop of colors like the yellows and pinks. A variety of fabrics like tweed looked terrific in a cinched-in jacket over floaty layers of chiffon and also in a flattering A-line dress with a contrasting top with peplum. Striking yellow and blue fabric in the generous oversized formal skirt which stood out from the 60s-look show.

PAULA KNORR

Hollywood glamour can be badass too. A sensually powerful collection, Paula Knorr's AW18 Collection was full of body-hugging lamé and seductive sparkles. With clashing fabrics and dramatic shapes, the looks drastically push the boundaries of evening wear into abstract realms, all the while keeping the looks as glitzy and glamorous as Hollywood’s elite. From emblazoning flares with an abundance of sequins to layering block color on block color fearlessly (hello, to the power of red), to even bringing back sheer materials, the collection was vibrant and unforgiving. And what brought it all together was Jazz singer, Laura Totenhagen, who set feminist poetry to music, using her voice and a loop pedal, made it an exceptionally atmospheric experience.

EUDON CHOI

The catch of the day. St. Ives, Cornwall inspiration // plush fisherman vibes with traditional technique and a touch of rugged romanticism. By far one of my favorite collections of London Fashion Week, Korean-born designer Eudon Choi, translated the relationships between these Cornish artists and their environment to create a collection that pays homage to St Ives as a muse to so many artists and a place of artistic pilgrimage. He celebrates the abstract art and Cornish light as well as paying homage to the brave fishermen who worked the harsh sea and the tin and copper miners who were once such an important part of the Cornish way of ilfe. Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Eudon has become a regular fixture at London Fashion Week. He has received numerous accolades for his work, most recently support from the British Fashion Council and the Fashion Trust through the Fashion Trust initiative, for the second time. Hair by Stephen Low at Neville for L'Oréal Professional // Makeup by Lucy Bridge for Streeters and the MAC Cosmetics Pro Team // Nails by Jessica Nails. 

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NYFW SS 18 Full Recap + Vlog

GALTISCOPIO

Galtiscopio is a brand founded in Paris that designs women’s clothing and accessories, mainly watches and jewelry. The clothing aligned perfectly with Galtiscopio’s focus on jewelry as each item featured a jeweled embellishment in some way. Models strutted down the runway wearing a variety of silk slip dresses in an array of colors (purple being one of my favorites). Diamond embellishments still played a large role in the second part of the collection. One model even wore a pair of headphones covered in crystals. 

CONCEPT KOREA

Concept Korea is a biannual fashion show, supported by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of South Korea and organized by Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), to showcase Korean designers' collections at NYFW in the hope of expanding overseas business and awareness of up-and-coming Korean designer brands. Running its 16th show, I was super excited to check out the homegrown brands LIE and GREEDILOUS. What appealed to were the employing feminine silhouettes to casual wear and the unique way of mixing a variety of fabrics in one garment, making K-fashion look daring and stylish, yet very wearable – in other words, it's considered commercial enough without losing its edge.

KATIE GALLAGHER

For her 17th collection, Katie Gallagher captured a cold spring day in clothing form. Simply titled (“Rain”) and attached to a Joanna Klink poem (“Some Feel Rain”), the collection stuck to a palette of inky black and frosted blue. For an hour, models cycled through a set presentation: Thunder would clap, a digital animation of abstract raindrops would splash across their faces, and each girl would take a slow, winding turn around the platform stage to better showcase the pieces. I would say there would be some ballet influence within her spring collection with those faux leotards in tights with mink sashes tied over one shoulder, a floor-grazing tulle skirt trimmed in black grosgrain, and the messy ballet buns on models’ heads.

BACKSTAGE AT TIBI WITH AVEDA

My second season going backstage with Aveda, I always look forward to seeing some of my favorite designer's collections and creative directions up close and personal. And Tibi always has such amazing pieces along with great hair and makeup. Strong, feminine and minimal are the three words I'd use to describe Tibi. Celebrating their 20th anniversary, there were tons of Nineties vibes, with mannish sporty looks on top of what Tibi is known for which is amazing tailoring and killer accessories. Can we please chit chat about these patent leather lavender mules I MUST have in my life come spring?! ;)

TAORAY WANG

Taoray Wang is designed for the powerful, professional and modern woman who wants to be stylish, elegant and sexy. The brand serves a global and confident woman who is not afraid to show her femininity in edgy design while she plays her role as a politician, lawyer, and other executive roles. Classic men's fabrics and lines are tamed into silhouettes of armored grace. “Customers are not defined by race or nationality. They have an international background, they embrace diversity and are open-minded to try different things. They are well-educated,well-traveled and are multi-cultural. Dramatic cinched waists, slouchy sleeves and fringe were some of my favorite features in this season's SS18 collection. 

YUNA YANG

Yuna Yang is inspired by the colors, textures, and narratives in fine art combined with her love of detail and unique Eastern perspective on Western aesthetics. Featuring women’s high-end designer wear, each design in the collection leverages a modern vision that harmonizes the quality of traditional couture.  Proudly designed and made in New York, Yang uses materials from around the world for her collection that can be found in selected high-end boutiques across the US, Middle East, and Asia. Her latest collection, called "Save the Earth," is made in New York and uses Korean silks, recycled organic cotton, and lace and hand beading from India. The designs take on the shapes found in nature such as flowers and features the color green often.

BACKSTAGE AT TOME WITH AVEDA

TOME's SS18 collection was like a deconstructed rainbow. A colorful lineup where multicolored stripes came alive through the movement of accordion pleats. Based in New York TOME sees the pair’s collective experience expressed in a range that is practical and straightforward – clean cut, essential dressing. Form follows function and every TOME piece is ethically produced, with a view toward inclusivity and diversity. 

BACKSTAGE AT PUBLIC SCHOOL NYC WITH AVEDA

Street-savvy clothing line Public School is the brainchild of New York-born and bred designers, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. Growing up, both Chow and Osborne attended public school in New York City, and that had a huge influence on their lives. “At public school here, you could tell who groups of students were by what they wore,” Osborne explained, which ignited the designer’s interest in clothing. What I really enjoyed was the makeup, most especially an updated version to a smokey eye... I'd prefer to call it the gasoline eye given the tar-like greasy appearence, it's such a cool look!

VIVIENNE TAM

For her spring show, Vivienne Tam found inspiration in Raman Hui’s Chinese 3-D fantasy movie Monster Hunt, the story of a mythical land where humans and monsters coexist. In particular, the collection spotlighted Wuba, the cute little monster protagonist of the movie. His funny image appeared on a range of pieces, from straw bags to feminine dresses, including airy asymmetric silk styles and a shirtdress featuring a drawstring at the waist. The movie also inspired the lineup’s palette of soft, pastel colors, as well as the graphic motifs of mountains and river landscapes, which were printed and embroidered on breezy frocks and cotton shirts with silk panels. Despite the main inspiration, the aesthetic wasn’t too childlike. She actually infused a free-spirited, nomadic vibe into her lively collection, where pretty ruffled silk and cotton lace dresses were styled with ethnic sash belts and utilitarian fanny packs worn as cross-body bags.

LIU BOLIN

Better known as "The Invisible Man" in media circles, Liu Bolin sprang from a generation of artists struggling with the consequences of the Cultural Revolution and the rapid economic development in the decades after. He discusses the social concerns of his home country through his artistic practice, most prominently through his 'camouflage' installations. Traversing mediums such as performance, photography and social activism, Liu Bolin dissects the tense relationship between the individual and society by 'disappearing' into environments which are sites of intrigue, contention, and criticism. His debut collection of inspired and editioned garments are hand painted and are inspired by Liu Bolin's politically charged photographs produced in the U.S. This project was inspired by 12 years of collaborations with various fashion powerhouses, including Lanvin, Gaultier, and Moncler, an outstanding musical performance by seven-year-old piano prodigy Zhao ZItang and Musical Director Charlie Klarsfelt set the tone for the gallery-like innovative presentation.

BACKSTAGE AT ZERO & MARIA CORNEJO AND AVEDA

In particular, the designer said that for her spring effort, she wanted to re-create that sense of youthfulness and freedom that her collections of the time exuded. Makeup was done by the super talented Dick Page and with Mac Cosmetics. I loved how fresh and simple the looks were, and the sleek 90s hair done by SVP Creative Director, Antoinette Beenders. Even the nails were spot on!

LANYU

LANYU’s shapes proudly show off a woman’s body and her natural femininity, helping her exude her inner confidence and beauty. LANYU is the namesake brand of China’s premiere luxury designer Lan Yu. Lan Yu’s design often incorporates Su embroidery - a traditional technique that has been handed down for generations in the designer’s family and is best known for its elegance, intricacy and photorealistic quality. I loved the pastel blues incorporated into the creamy neutral toned palettes. And red didn't fail to make an appearance even in a more subtly-colored collection. I'm telling ya', that color is going to be hot, hot, hot this fall!

MIMI PROBER

Mimi Prober is a New York based designer and Fashion Institute of Technology graduate. Her signature collection is handcrafted using recovered fragments of antique materials dating from the 18th to early 20th centuries, natural and locally produced luxury fibers, as well as botanical based dye methods that have been uniquely developed into custom textiles that are organically designed, artisanal, and seasonless. Through a zero-waste philosophy, each piece is created by hand with one of a kind placement that highlights the individual history and story. Prober is celebrated for her decorative and unique beading, embroidery, and lace designs. Integrating the artistry of the past and establishing a sustainable future through the reuse of antique materials to create modern handcrafted heirlooms. Honoring the hands that created the art.

MARCEL OSTERTAG

Marcel Ostertag is maker and brand in one. In his studio, surrounded by the pulsating streets of the Gaertnerplatz quarter, he creates his collections which are set between tradition and modernity. During his studies at the renowned Central St. Martins College in London, Marcel Ostertag could extend his feeling and know how for fashion and is constantly developing thanks to numerous international shows and collaborations. Catwalk shows in Shanghai, Beijing, London and Vienna are in the meantime routine, as is the seasonal show in the course of the Berlin fashion week. He draws his inspiration from nature, encounters with interesting people, travels and foreign countries – but never forgets his roots. He has worked on projects with Burberry, Paul Smith and Dunhill, furthermore great brands such as Miele and Volkswagen are amongst his customers. He finally devoted himself to the glamour of fashion with the founding of his own label Marcel Ostertag in 2006. His fashion is exclusively produced in Germany, as his credo is quality needs control. That is what his style demands and you can feel it in every fantastic piece by Marcel Ostertag.

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) SS18 Vlog is now up on my YouTube channel! Check it out! creative director: Suzanne Spiegoski videography: Suzanne Spiegoski production: Suzanne Spiegoski stylist: Suzanne Spiegoski Be sure to Subscribe for new videos every week! LOVE & XX'S, MaQ + Suz 

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