My London Fashion Week SS19 recap is finally here! Sorry for the delay this season guys! On top of massive deadlines, and trying to play catch up, it has become apparent that being a one-woman show (aside from my amazing husband and photographer who I’m always so thankful for), it may be time to perhaps hire an intern/pt asst. If you know of someone who is between the ages of 21-25 and is just starting to get into the blogging scene, please connect them with me! Or if you think you may be a person as such, preferably in NYC, hardworking and professional (meaning you are not entitled, has half a brain and can maybe juggle a few tasks at once), feel free to reach out! With that note, let’s take a look at my second season (and second visit to London) of LFW, where I’m keeping the format same as my New York Fashion Week diary, where I choose 6 favorites from each collection I’ve viewed along with a recap/review. Let’s carry on then!
Gayeon Lee kicked off London Fashion Week SS19 with a collection that explores the relationship between fashion and art; referencing the figurative works of Egon Schiele, Lee used colors and patterns inspired by the intensity of painter's figurative works. Its distinct look to a unique use of texture, color, graphic shapes, and intriguing deconstruction are thoughtful detailing features throughout in pleats, drapes, and gathers. Presented by a mixture of professional ballet dancers and models in movement; stripes, spots, and a natural color palette offset a contemporary interpretation of 50’s feminine silhouettes in structured volumes and gamine looks. Texture and movements on point, another favorite out of the six chosen were definitely the bags.
Nicopanda’s SS19 collection was all about the 90’s underground dance culture. A mixture of sequins, neons and animal prints, with fun accessories like light-up devil horns, electric blue cowboy hats and metallic tinsel for hair to complete the looks. I also appreciated the club-ready streetwear collection of slinky dresses, sporty co-ords and chunky sneakers. And with the finishing touch, Nicopanda revealed a series of t-shirts designed by NYC based artist, activist and Nicopanda crew member, Hilton Dresden, as part of a partnership with Merch by Amazon that was immediately ready to purchase post-show.
Incorporating elements from poet Emily Dickson, such as themes of nature, dominance and religion, Xu based the collection on different aspects of her character and work. Fringe dresses, shredded satin, loose fits and tassel suits, Xu Zhi stirred an awakening of the era of luxury and femininity of the 1920s. However with an adaption of khaki, bomber jackets and co-ords, the SS19 collection instills a contemporary and progressive fashion label. Favorite: White tassel suit. Other favorable mentions: The space's stained glasses and gothic architecture. Simply gorgeous. Special thanks to Rowben Lantion for the insatiable photos. x
First time seeing Marta Jukubowski and was definitely not disappointed. Being partly Polish, I was proud to see the Polish-born London designer's work. She likes to reminisce in the past in the present, and in the SS19 theme, it was a time travel of sorts. Memories from the past, of moments associated with them, even though it's a glimpse into her younger days, the collection alone can relate to any woman, old and young. Signature evening dresses, pencil skirts and tailored jackets all updated with wrap fastenings and rewashed with fresh colorways of mint, teal and a soft mauve. Juxtaposed with snippets of her time in Ibiza, the Spanish party island, which presented itself through subtle use of fluorescent piping and lace details alongside jarring hues of lime green and bright pink. And BIG hats. BIG. Favorite: Python pants all the way (aside from the extra af resort accessories... LOVE/miłość
Johnston’s of Elgin are renowned for their signature chic and elegant designs coupled with fine cuts and detailed tailoring. Think cashmere and tartan print - but how to incorporate into summerwear? Set at the Palm Court, Waldorf Hilton Hotel, the brand used lightweight materials and knit modernisms to create outfits for all year round. 15 womenswear and five menswear collections were showcased and for high summer, the brand used lightweight cashmere and mesh materials with bright canary yellows, rich purples and creamy ecru made to have the designs pop and blend luxuriously. One such outfit of a tartan top tucked into a pair of cerise long shorts was a definite favorite. The SS19 collection is casual, sporty and effortlessly summery – even with a tinge of Ancient Greek royalty in some of the goddess-like summer dresses.
The runway was designed to emulate coral covered driftwood; it was constructed of flowers and real abandoned fishing nets. Fyodor Golan's collection itself was inspired by the sea; surfing influences can be seen in sporty tailoring and materials, while shells and real pearls are utilized details throughout the collection. Various shades of navy, cyan and turquoise, produced in washed denim, raw silks and recycled cottons were definitely prominent in the ocean-themed show. According to the show notes, color combinations and collaged pieces were inspired by American painter, Jamie Adams, whilst images of pastel discarded waste were inspired by sculptures by Thirza Schaap. Favorites: The issue that has been somewhat neglected this season; the environment.
For SS19 Ada introduces the color of pink, as inspired by a recent scientific discovery that found pink is the oldest color. She plays with rose hues to illustrate a galactic theme within her collection which features tulle ballerina skirts paired with lilac iridescent harnesses with ring detailing. 3D floral embellishments made through hand-cut manipulation accentuate feminine silhouettes, creating unusual shapes. Contrasting themes of fetishism were explored through the harnessed bullet bras detailed with pink rhinestones. Ada Zanditon blends avant-garde pieces with more of a luxe feel to appeal to her ever-growing fearless clients, such as Ariana Grande and Mariah Carey. Her bold designs and unique techniques display her concepts surrounding the relationship between the body and the garment itself.
Cassey Gan's signature block prints and primary tones standout each season and yet continues to keep each collection fresh and innovative. SS19 is all about midi lengths and asymmetric and layered hemlines. Traditional menswear checks and stripes are paired with Cassey’s iconic geometric patterns in enhanced earthy tones with predominant shades of turquoise, blue, black, white and red. Each look entails a concoction of print combinations and layers, making every ensemble quite appealing. Attention to each positioned layer and complimentary tones and shades makes the collection. The printed tunics are paired with metallic and glittery trimmings and bell-sleeved shirts are accessorized with tailored bibs. Pleats are scattered across the looks and can be glimpsed outlining varying hems. Favorites: dress in top right, bags and statement earrings.
Inspired by Lorenzo Vitturi’s ‘Money Must Be Made,’ designer Minki Cheng’s latest collection imagined the artist’s journey through the Balogun Market on Lagos Island. The set design was compacted with all manner of objects from furniture to textiles piled high in perilous towers on the catwalk. Minki’s aesthetic is ever optimistic and fun, constantly playing with color, print, and texture; his signature clash of bright yellows, pinks, blues, and reds contrasted in this collection with muted navy and khaki in abstract prints on fresh and playful silhouettes. Favorites: Bottom middle (most beautiful blue I've seen in a while), the accessories such as head ties and jelly sandals that brought a childlike innocence to the mix.
Farzaneh H. Christensen combines elegance with professionalism while creating exotic, timeless designs varying from luxurious evening gowns to trend forward cocktail dresses. All materials are sourced in European countries varying from France to Italy and include the finest silk and handmade beadings in order to achieve the final intricate creations. The materials used are sourced throughout Europe. From Italy and France the brand has the finest silks including satin duchesse and silk velvet which are all ethical and sustainable. Farzaneh’s mission is to make everyone feel and look their best possible, glamorous self. She offers a ‘Bespoke Service’. Attention to the individual ensures that every customer feels elegant, confident and special. Her ‘Bespoke Couture Services’ enables the client to be fully involved as she creates a unique, personalized ‘work of art’ designed specifically for the individual. Clearly demonstrated in the SS19 collection. Favorite: Lime me that Green dress, BABY!
It’s all about trying to embrace change and diversity within the fashion industry in Steventai's SS19 collection. Inspired by Sofia Coppola’s film The Virgin Suicides, the pieces were feminine and bold - the kind of clothes made for unique and strong women. But what was entirely refreshing about this collection, in particular, are the models and the entire project behind it. A model who has alopecia, another with a birthmark on her face, burn survivors - a moving way to show different types of beauty. An intimate, and yet softly glamorous 1970’s nostalgic mood. Favorite: Lilac pantsuit with the flared bottoms. So cool.
Paul Costelloe's signature elegance was apparent in his SS19 particularly in voluminous layered mini dresses and dramatic evening gowns. But the unexpected twist was the welcomed sense of 80s nostalgia. Boy, I guess it was the time to party because the models oozed a carefree sexiness reminiscent of those days (Or sho I've been told...) The highlight was a sports luxe theme throughout colorful bodysuits with longline tailored jackets. Styled with quiffed hair, ankle boots and fishnet socks (both in white) produced a beautifully unpredicted ensemble.
A collection with a wearable daytime elegance, Tata Naka's whimsical illustrations and prints were scattered across feminine pleats and tailoring. The motifs and iconography nodded to the designers Tamara and Natasha Surgulaze's Greek and Roman influences. Other classical elements included the statue-like placement of the models on marble columns, toga-esque silhouettes and woven sandals. Fun fact: Ambassadors of the brand include Cameron Diaz, Mina Suvari and Sarah Jessica Parker, the Tata-Naka collection even regularly starred in the legendary series Sex in the City & was worn by Carrie Bradshaw on the cover of the official book. Favorites: anything animal print.
One of my favorite presentations from LFW, Edeline Lee's immersive one investigated the feminine state through design and performance with a contemporary dance spectacular juxtaposing the “woman’s vulnerable, internal persona versus her worldly, exterior facade". he dance performance showcased Lee’s SS19 collection in various scenes from classic fashion moments such as catwalk show, red carpet arrival and afterparty, as well as dream sequences featuring choreography playing homage to the work of Pina Bausch and Traja Harrell, all to a soundtrack featuring female voices only, alongside minimal white props and retro light effects. It also championed a more body-positive approach to dressing as the models and dancers in the show came in various shapes and sizes and perfectly showcased how flattering Lee’s designs are.The collection itself, expands on Lee’s experimentation with ruching and ruffles, while maintaining the designer’s tailored, womanly shapes, and saw the label’s signature Flou Bubble Jacquard fabric showcased in scarlet, ivory and bottle green, alongside a crinkle georgette in brown and ivory, and a graphic, hand-painted zigzag print. Highlights included the spaghetti-strap dresses and long-sleeve A-line dresses, as well as the feminine skirts and separates that were accented with hand-covered, multicolored dome buttons and buckles.
The 80s are evident for SS19 and Korean cult-brand pushBUTTON is no exception. Korean designer and former K-pop star, Seung-Gun Park of pushBUTTON began to feel immediate pressure and in light of his show notes, described being in a trapped square box with no room for anything. And that's how the 'square shoulder' came to be, becoming the main silhouette of his collection along with giving an updated version of the power shoulder detail. Impeccable needlework and precise fabric selection, along with a variety of tabs and hooks to completely change up the silhouette just with closing and opening, and separable jackets, shirts, and pants can completely create new asymmetrical silhouettes by being separated or combined together. The masterful handling of various fabrics from wool, cotton, jersey, chiffon to denim proves how nimble and agile this label can be. Favorites: Deconstructed pants and the minty fresh maxi dress ensemble.
Want to see more from any of these SS19 collection from LFW? Continue onto my Instagram page where under my highlights you will find each finale walk in my LFW sections. What was your favorite out of the ones I attended this season? If you had to pick one outfit of your choice, what would it be? Stay tuned for my London Fashion Week street style content, coming up next!
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